Italian luxury brand Prada found itself at the center of a cultural storm in June 2025 after unveiling sandal designs strikingly similar to Kolhapuri chappals, the traditional handcrafted leather footwear from Maharashtra. The backlash prompted a swift response: a Prada technical delegation recently visited Kolhapur to engage with artisans, spark meaningful collaboration, and address public concerns. Let’s unpack how luxury fashion intersected with heritage craft—and what comes next.
🎭 The Milan Spark: Designer Sandals, Indian Roots
During its Spring/Summer 2026 men’s fashion show in Milan on June 22, 2025, Prada showcased open-toed leather sandals with a toe loop and braided strap—hallmarks of authentic Kolhapuri chappals. Priced at around ₹1 lakh, these high-end sandals drew ire on social media for cultural appropriation and lack of attribution. Unlike the ₹8–10 traditional originals, Prada’s iteration flew off the runway without acknowledging its inspirational roots initially.
🔥 Backlash & Public Outcry
Critics, including Indian artisans and commentators like Harsh Goenka and ex-World Bank official Dhanendra Kumar, accused Prada of “cashing in on Indian culture” without credit or compensation. A Public Interest Litigation in Bombay High Court added legal pressure, arguing that the sandals violated the GI-tag status of Kolhapuri chappals and demanded compensation for local craftsmen.
While backlash was strong, it also provided Prada an opportunity to acknowledge its design inspiration—eventually prompting the brand to reach out to Indian stakeholders.
🤝 The Kolhapur Delegation: Making Amends?
Between July 14–16, according to sources like Reuters, PTI, and Economic Times, Prada dispatched a four- to six-member technical delegation—including senior footwear designers and supply-chain consultants—to Kolhapur. They toured chappal clusters, spoke with shopkeepers, and recorded traditional leatherwork techniques.
Lalit Gandhi, head of the Maharashtra Chamber of Commerce (MACCIA), described the visit as “a positive sign,” laying the groundwork for joint efforts: GI-certified artisan engagement, product development, and possibly a limited edition ‘Made in India’ Kolhapuri collection.
⚖️ Legal Landscape & PIL Update
On July 16, the Bombay High Court dismissed the PIL seeking injunction and artisan compensation, citing insufficient grounds. Still, the move did not diminish public pressure or cultural expectations, and the artisanal cause continues to draw attention.
🌍 Impacts Beyond Prada
The episode has sparked broader discourse:
- Artisan Visibility: Google Trends shows surging interest in Kolhapuri chappals, reflecting a post-backlash boost to traditional craft awareness.
- Cultural Credits: The ‘copy vs credit’ debate ignited conversations comparing Prada’s approach to more respectful attempts by brands like Louis Vuitton and Pharrell Williams.
- Empowerment Potential: Some see the “Prada effect” as a global stage for Kolhapur’s artisans—a chance to enter new export and luxury markets.
🔧 What Happens Next?
- Product Collaboration: The technical report from Prada’s visit may lead to senior design delegations in August, with co-created Kolhapuri styles expected under a joint “Made in India” badge.
- GI Protection: India is evaluating stronger legal support for Kolhapuri’s Geographical Indication tag to prevent future misuse.
- Sustainable Market Development: MACCIA is exploring international showcase platforms and championing responsible design partnerships.
🧭 Final Take
Prada’s Kolhapuri chapter shows how cultural integrity matters more than ever in global fashion. When heritage is borrowed without acknowledgment, backlash is nearly guaranteed. But when brands pivot—engaging directly with artisans and respecting lineage—they help preserve traditions and create positive economic impact.
The Kolhapur delegation isn’t just PR—it marks potential transformation: from global spotlight to meaningful collaboration. If Prada follows through with artisan partnerships and co-branded products that benefit local communities, this chapter could become a blueprint for ethical fashion worldwide.
But if it stops at symbolism and doesn’t uplift craftspersons, the backlash may prove a missed opportunity.
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